The slow march through Bristol’s various tapas restaurants continues. Tonight, Gambas, sister restaurant of the beloved Cotham staple, Bravas. As the name would suggest, Gambas - occupying one of the shipping containers down in Cargo on Wapping Wharf - specialises in fish and seafood, although not at the expense of the classics. Fresh anchovies - my god, the texture! A revelation compared to the tinned stuff (obviously). Air dried tuna with tomato, served carpaccio style. A goo-centred tortilla, just as it should be, with a fine dollop of alioli. Burnt leeks with romesco, being torn apart in bare hands, the outer charred layer giving way to the stringy, full-flavoured interior. I am only disappointed that they’ve run out of oysters. We somehow find room for desserts, a crema Catalana brought out still aflame and a goxua, with almost meringue-like consistency. I have a wonderful time, at least partially thanks to my first drink since Dry January, a 2020 Pixel, using Pedro Ximinez grapes in a less sweet wine, then doubling up with an actual PX with dessert. Cargo is host to some of the best restaurants in Bristol, and it’s wonderful to find that Gambas is not letting the side down.