1000 Tiny Birds

Bulrush

Bristol, 2023-05-07

At some point, I casually mentioned to Mayuri that if she’s looking for an excuse to go back to Bulrush, one of the two remaining Michelin starred restaurants in Bristol, I’m always up for it. I didn’t really think it had sunk in, so how pleasant a surprise to have her remind me of that on a work night out, and a few days later she, Justin, and I are there for lunch on a sunny May Saturday. I am talked down to only the six course tasting menu, although I do take the kitchen up on the optional extra course of veal. Even though, there are any number of little extras to make me not fret too much. The duck liver macaron, all proper fizzing in the mouth cutting through the richness of the parfait. And that’s just the amuse bouche. There’s an incredible inventiveness occuring at Bulrush, the Japanese flavours being paired with more European technique - the almost ice cream float of the kambucha and rhubarb based dessert. Or even fusion aside, the Tunworth cheese ice cream, their own description which does no justice to the texture of the thing, so smooth, liberally topped with soba honey.