It’s my friend Jessie’s birthday coming up, so I said I’d treat her to the special, separate part of Pasture that serves, for only a few nights a month, Radius, their ten course tasting menu. We in advance make many jokes about how it’s just going to be ten lots of steak. Ha ha. We’re very funny. Luckily, that is by no means the case. It’s hard to remember much beyond the bread course for a couple of reasons, one of which being just how good that butter bread was. I have never had bread with so much inherent density of flavour. My god. There’s an impressive amount of seafood - octopus ramen, monkfish with caviar - as if this were all an effort to demonstrate that they can do more than just steak. Of course there is steak, though, and boy can they do that too. Other lighter dishes flit around too, like the white asparagus with wild garlic, rich yet breezy. The wine pairings on a Thursday night might have been a misjudgement, but there are worse misjudgments to make. I am distracted for much of the evening, and Jessie ends up MCing the collective. All of that is a positive.