It does feel a bit much to so quickly be returning to dining out here after returning from New York, but I’ve not seen Raph in a while and it would be lovely to kill two birds with one stone. Marmo’s always been the white whale of St Stephen’s Street, spending all my time at Cotto or Pasta Ripiena or Burger Theory as I do. But no more! And oh to think I’ve been missing out on this for so long. Raph is running late so I take the liberty of ordering whatever nibbles I want - olives, bread, anchovies, the works. All delicious. A steak tartare on toasted sourdough with egg yolk is divine, all horseradish notes and textural overload. A pig’s cheek ragu served with conchiglie is doused in pecorino, and although my pasta heart belongs to the Bianchi group, I cannot deny how much I enjoy this. But still further, the chocolate mousse. An honest to god revelation. The cream to mousse ratio is about 50⁄50, and the consistency of the cream is almost impossible - not whipped, not extra thick, but somehow it sublimates as it touches your tongue, whilst the mousse contains the nibs to set it all off. An instant new Bristol favourite.